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Barrier lipids

Ceramides

INCI: Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP (and others)·Studied at barrier-identical blends·Moderate evidence

The lipids that make up much of the skin’s outer barrier, added to serums for the appearance of a comfortable, resilient-looking barrier and less visible dryness. Ceramides make up roughly half of the lipid matrix that holds surface skin cells together, and formulas are studied to work best when they mirror that natural ratio alongside cholesterol and fatty acids rather than using ceramides alone. They show up heavily in barrier-repair moisturizers and are a common way to offset the look of dryness that comes with retinoids or acids.

Studied for

  • ·The appearance of a supported, comfortable-looking barrier
  • ·The look of less visible dryness and flaking
  • ·The appearance of reduced visible water loss and tightness
  • ·Supporting the look of calmer skin during retinoid or acid use

How it’s thought to work

Studied for association with topping up the skin’s own barrier lipids for the look of smoother, better-protected skin; they work best in the right ratio with cholesterol and fatty acids. The proposed picture is a "bricks and mortar" structure, where surface cells are the bricks and lipids like ceramides are the mortar filling the gaps between them. Replenishing that mortar is studied for the look of reduced visible water loss and a smoother, more even surface.

Landmark study

Over 4 weeks, a ceramide precursor moisturizer was linked with less visible dryness and a more hydrated look in dry, sensitive skin.

Improvement of skin barrier function in atopic dermatitis patients with a new moisturizer containing a ceramide precursor. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2013.

View on PubMed (PMID 22812593) ↗

Questions

Do ceramides replace a moisturizer?
No. They are a barrier-support ingredient best layered into a moisturizer or serum, not a stand-in for one.
Are ceramides good for sensitive or eczema-prone skin?
Yes, they are one of the more commonly recommended actives for a compromised or reactive-looking barrier, since the goal is comfort rather than active change.
Can ceramides be used with retinol or exfoliating acids?
Yes, and they often are on purpose. Retinoids and acids can strip barrier lipids, so pairing them with ceramides is a common way to soften the look of dryness and irritation.

Serums we’ve scored with Ceramides

References