EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor Oligopeptide)
A lab-made or plant-expressed version of epidermal growth factor, a signalling protein naturally involved in wound healing, used in prestige serums for the appearance of firmer, smoother-looking skin. It is a large, fragile molecule, so stability and delivery are open questions, and most cosmetic versions are recombinant or plant-expressed rather than derived from human or animal tissue. It tends to appear in expensive, ampoule-style products layered under the promise of cell communication and renewal-looking skin.
Studied for
- ·The appearance of firmness and a smoother-looking surface
- ·The look of fine lines
- ·Supporting the look of skin's visible recovery after visible stress
How it’s thought to work
Studied for cell-signalling that may support the appearance of renewed-looking skin, working through growth-factor receptor pathways studied in wound-healing research. Topical penetration of so large a protein and finished-product evidence remain early, and encapsulation or peptide-fragment delivery systems are commonly used to try to help it survive formulation and reach the skin surface intact.
In a split-face trial, EGF cream, especially in micro-spicule form, was linked to visibly smoother periocular wrinkles after four weeks of use.
The Effect of Micro-Spicule Containing Epidermal Growth Factor on Periocular Wrinkles. Annals of Dermatology, 2017.
View on PubMed (PMID 28392646) ↗Questions
- Do EGF serums work?
- The idea is interesting, but the cosmetic evidence is preliminary, there is no established use level, and EGF is a large protein that is hard to keep stable and hard to deliver into skin. For now it is a promising area to watch rather than a proven active.
- Is EGF derived from human tissue?
- Most cosmetic versions are not. They are typically produced by recombinant fermentation or expressed in plants or yeast, engineered to match the human EGF sequence, rather than sourced from human or animal tissue.
- How should EGF serums be stored and used?
- Because the protein is fragile, look for opaque, airless or single-dose packaging and keep it away from heat and direct light. Most brands position it as a leave-on serum layered before moisturizer, used once or twice daily.