Exosomes
Tiny vesicles that carry signalling cargo, proteins, lipids and RNA fragments, between cells, the newest headline in prestige serums. Depending on the brand they may be sourced from plants, platelets or lab-cultured stem-cell conditioned media, and sourcing is not yet standardized across the category. The marketing is well ahead of the cosmetic evidence, which is early and mostly brand-led, and there is no agreed-upon topical use level or vesicle count that defines an effective serum.
Studied for
- ·The appearance of firmness and a rested-looking complexion
- ·The look of a smoother, more even surface
- ·The appearance of a more radiant-looking glow
- ·Supporting the look of resilience after in-office procedures
How it’s thought to work
Studied for association with cell-to-cell signalling that may support the appearance of skin renewal; topical delivery and finished-product evidence are still preliminary. The proposed idea is that the vesicles’ cargo can prompt skin cells to behave the way they would after an injury-repair signal, supporting the look of a more rested, renewed complexion. Whether intact vesicles survive formulation and penetrate skin at a meaningful rate is still an open question in the published research.
In a 12-week split-face trial, adding exosome solution to microneedling was linked to a better looking, more even skin appearance than microneedling alone.
Efficacy of combined treatment with human adipose tissue stem cell-derived exosome-containing solution and microneedling for facial skin aging: A 12-week prospective, randomized, split-face study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2023.
View on PubMed (PMID 37377400) ↗Questions
- Do exosome serums work?
- The idea is interesting, but the cosmetic evidence is preliminary and there is no established topical use level. For now this is a promising area to watch rather than a proven active.
- What is the difference between plant and stem-cell exosomes?
- The source differs. Plant-derived vesicles sidestep the sourcing questions that come with human or animal cell lines, but neither type has settled, standardized dosing yet, so labels are not directly comparable brand to brand.
- Are exosome serums worth the price?
- Given how early the cosmetic evidence is, it is reasonable to treat these as a speculative extra rather than a core step your routine depends on.