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Fermented essence (yeast filtrate)

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera)

INCI: Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate·Limited evidence

A yeast-ferment filtrate, the Pitera in SK-II style essences, used at very high percentages for the appearance of a brighter, smoother-looking complexion. It is a ferment blend rich in amino acids, minerals, organic acids and vitamins rather than a single active, produced by fermenting a strain of Galactomyces (a yeast related to sake brewing) and filtering out the solids. The format popularized the modern essence step in Japanese and Korean routines, applied as a watery liquid before serums.

Studied for

  • ·The appearance of a brighter, more refined-looking complexion
  • ·The look of smoother, more even-toned skin
  • ·The appearance of smaller-looking pores
  • ·Hydration and surface conditioning support

How it’s thought to work

Studied for surface conditioning and the look of a smoother, more radiant complexion; the effect is credited to the combined amino acid, mineral and organic acid content of the ferment rather than one isolated compound. Much of the strongest data is brand-led and run on a specific proprietary ferment, which makes it hard to generalize across the many drugstore versions now sold under the same INCI name.

Landmark study

In a small trial, a serum with this ferment filtrate plus other actives was linked to a better look of lingering dark spots after 8 weeks.

The Effectiveness of Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Dexpanthenol, and Centella Asiatica Combination Serum in the Treatment of Post-Acne Hyperpigmentation in Subjects with Skin of Color. Skinmed, 2021.

View on PubMed (PMID 33938432) ↗

Questions

Is drugstore galactomyces ferment filtrate the same as the famous prestige essence?
It is the same named ingredient, but not necessarily the same ferment. The original essence uses a specific, proprietary strain and fermentation process, while budget versions use the generic Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate INCI, which can vary in concentration and quality between brands.
How should I use a galactomyces essence?
Most are designed as a watery first step after cleansing, patted or swept on before heavier serums and moisturizer, and are gentle enough for twice-daily use.

Serums we’ve scored with Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera)

References