Propolis Extract
A resin bees collect from tree buds and sap, used at high percentages in glow serums for the appearance of a nourished, dewy-looking complexion. It carries flavonoid antioxidants such as galangin and pinocembrin along with waxes and resins, varies significantly by hive and region, and is not vegan. Propolis has a long history in traditional remedies, which is part of why it carries an artisanal, natural-ingredient halo in glow-serum marketing.
Studied for
- ·The appearance of a nourished, dewy-looking complexion
- ·The look of a calmer, more comfortable-looking surface
- ·Antioxidant support against the look of environmental dulling
How it’s thought to work
Studied for antioxidant and conditioning support for the look of the skin, largely credited to its flavonoid and phenolic acid content. It is a variable natural material, so composition and effect depend heavily on where and when it is harvested, and standardization across brands is inconsistent.
Lab testing on human skin models found propolis extract reduced UV related damage markers, suggesting it may help guard against photodamage.
Propolis Extracts Inhibit UV-Induced Photodamage in Human Experimental In Vitro Skin Models. Antioxidants (Basel), 2019.
View on PubMed (PMID 31075866) ↗Questions
- Can propolis cause a reaction?
- It can for people sensitive to bee products, so a patch test is sensible before using it on the face. It is also not vegan, which matters if that is a consideration for you.
- Is propolis suitable for vegans?
- No. Propolis is collected and processed by bees, so any product built around it is an animal-derived ingredient and not vegan, even when the rest of the formula is plant-based.
- How much propolis should a serum contain?
- There is no single studied concentration to check against, since most of the evidence sits at the whole-extract level rather than a specific percentage. Brands that market propolis as a hero active tend to disclose a headline percentage on the front of the pack rather than the INCI list, which is worth treating as marketing shorthand rather than a clinical dose.