Is centella good for sensitive or reactive-looking skin?

It is one of the more commonly recommended botanicals for that. Centella is widely used in cica lines aimed at skin that looks reactive or recently compromised, often alongside barrier lipids like ceramides.

What is the difference between centella extract and madecassoside?

Centella asiatica extract is the whole-plant material, while madecassoside is one of its purified triterpene compounds. Formulas that list madecassoside on its own are typically leaning on a more standardized, higher-purity fraction of the plant rather than the broader extract.

Can I use cica with actives like retinoids or acids?

Yes, that is one of its more common uses. Because it is a soothing, non-exfoliating botanical, cica is often layered with or used on alternate nights from retinoids and acids to help a routine feel more comfortable.

Soothing botanical (triterpenes)

Centella Asiatica (Cica)

INCI: Centella Asiatica Extract·Moderate evidence

The centella asiatica plant and its purified triterpenes, the cica in K-beauty soothing serums, used for the appearance of a calmer, less-reddened-looking complexion. It is one of the better-studied soothing botanicals, with research spanning whole-leaf extracts and isolated actives such as madecassoside and asiaticoside. Cica products range from light daily essences to thick, occlusive-feeling creams marketed at compromised- or reactive-looking skin, and the plant shows up across skincare, wound-care gels and traditional herbal preparations alike.

Studied for

·The appearance of a calmer, less-reddened-looking complexion
·The look of a comfortable, supported-looking barrier
·The appearance of smoother, more resilient-looking skin after visible irritation

How it’s thought to work

Studied for the appearance of reduced visible redness and a more comfortable-looking surface; madecassoside and the related triterpenes (asiaticoside, asiatic acid, madecassic acid) are the fractions most of the research points to. These compounds are studied alongside skin-barrier lipids in some formulations, which is part of why cica is so often paired with ceramides or panthenol rather than used alone.

Landmark study

In a controlled trial, a Centella asiatica cream was linked with a better looking, more even scar appearance over 12 weeks.

A Prospective Randomized, Controlled, Double-Blind Trial of the Efficacy Using Centella Cream for Scar Improvement. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2018.

View on PubMed (PMID 30310413) ↗

Questions

Is centella good for sensitive or reactive-looking skin?: It is one of the more commonly recommended botanicals for that. Centella is widely used in cica lines aimed at skin that looks reactive or recently compromised, often alongside barrier lipids like ceramides.
What is the difference between centella extract and madecassoside?: Centella asiatica extract is the whole-plant material, while madecassoside is one of its purified triterpene compounds. Formulas that list madecassoside on its own are typically leaning on a more standardized, higher-purity fraction of the plant rather than the broader extract.
Can I use cica with actives like retinoids or acids?: Yes, that is one of its more common uses. Because it is a soothing, non-exfoliating botanical, cica is often layered with or used on alternate nights from retinoids and acids to help a routine feel more comfortable.

Serums we’ve scored with Centella Asiatica (Cica)

References

This dossier covers the efficacy evidence. For the safety and concern profile of Centella Asiatica (Cica), see PlainBody ↗, our sister site.