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Humectant

Hyaluronic Acid

INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate·Studied at 0.1–2%·Moderate evidence

A humectant that holds many times its weight in water, used at a range of molecular weights (often blended as "multi-weight HA") for the appearance of plumper, more hydrated-looking skin. Higher-weight forms sit on the surface for an immediate smoothing look, while lower-weight forms are studied for reaching a little deeper. It is a comfort and finish ingredient, not an anti-aging active, and its visible effect is tied closely to how consistently it is used.

Studied for

  • ·The appearance of hydrated, plumper-looking skin
  • ·The look of temporarily smoother, more supple-feeling texture
  • ·Support for the visible comfort of a moisturising routine

How it’s thought to work

Studied for association with drawing and holding water at the skin’s surface for the look of smoother, dewier skin. Multi-molecular-weight blends are formulated so different sizes sit at different depths, which research links to a more even hydrating effect across the surface. The benefit is hydration-driven and largely lasts only while it continues to be used, rather than building over time.

Landmark study

A multicenter study linked a topical hyaluronic acid serum with better looking hydration, tone, and texture over several follow up visits.

Multicenter evaluation of a topical hyaluronic acid serum. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2022.

View on PubMed (PMID 35833366) ↗

Questions

Can hyaluronic acid dry my skin out?
In very dry air it can pull moisture from deeper skin if there is nothing to draw from and nothing sealing it in. Applying it to damp skin and following with a moisturiser keeps it working the right direction.
Does molecular weight matter when choosing a hyaluronic acid serum?
It affects where it sits. Higher-weight HA stays nearer the surface for an immediate plumping look, while lower-weight versions are studied for working a little deeper. Many serums blend a few weights for a more rounded effect.
Can I use hyaluronic acid every day?
Yes, it has no frequency limit and is generally suited to twice-daily use, layered under moisturiser on damp skin.

Serums we’ve scored with Hyaluronic Acid

References

This dossier covers the efficacy evidence. For the safety and concern profile of Hyaluronic Acid, see PlainBody ↗, our sister site.